Abrasion: wet processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion. Pumice stones are the most frequently used. (See stone washing)
Acetate/triacetate: The oldest man-made fibre and the first one made using tree pulp. Fabrics were made from acetate during WW1 and used in airplane wings. Acetate has fair absorbency, high luster, (silk like) poor abrasion resistance, poor fastness to the sun and low strength which reduces 30% when wet.
Acid wash: (also known as Marble wash/Moon was/Snow was) Patented by the Italian Canadian Laundry company in 1986, the finish gave indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The process was achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast.
Acrylic: Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and pills easily.
Azoic Dyes: Azoic dyes are the insoluble pigments formed within the fibre by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base.
Bartak: A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans, usually front flies, pocket openings and crotch joins of inseams. Thankfully there is a bartek machines.
Basket Weave: A fabric weaves where more than one filling threads pass over and under the same number of threads on alternate rows of the warp.
Bedford Cord: A fabric weave with ribs down the length of the fabric. The ribs can be any width. Looks like an uncut unbrushed corduroy without a velvet feeling.
Big E: Jeans made by Levi Strauss before 1971 where the “E” on the LEVI tab was a capital
Bleach: Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade. Liquid bleach us usually an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain chloride of line (calcium hypochlorite). Because chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial hypochlorite bleaches should never be used on these fibres.
Bleaching: An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from yarn or fabric. Also a process for laundries to make denim jeans fade.
Boll Weevil: This beetle is the most serious pest confronting cotton farmers. The boll weevil affects cotton production throughout North America. It is estimated that between 3,000,000 and 5,000,000 bales of cotton are destroyed annually by the pest. Teach spring adult boll weevils deposit between 1—300 eggs in cotton buds. Because it takes only 2-3 weeks for the egg to develop into an adult, it is possible that 2-10 generations of the beetle are created each year. Insecticides cannot stop the boll weevil because the larvae live inside the cotton boll where it destroys both seeds and surrounding fibres. Organic farmers control the beetle by mowing down and ploughing their crops completely at the end of each season taking away the place for the pest to hide.
Broken Twill: A denim fabric weave first used by Wrangler in 1964 in their jeans style 13MWZ.The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design. Used prominently in the 1980’s by designer jeans brands like Sassoon, Jordache, and Calvin Klein with their dark prewash jeans and of course originally made famous by Wrangler.
Bull Denim:A 3×1 will weave piece dyed fabric, made from course yarns. Weights can vary from 9 ozs/sq yard up to standard 14 ozs/sq yards. It’s basically denim without indigo!
Canvas: The simplest weave in textiles is a plain weave (1×1) where the filling yarn is passed over and under individual war yarns, using thick yarns, makes the fabric into a canvas.
Carding: The industrial yarn preparation process where raw cotton is separated, opened, cleaned, and made into sliver.
Catalyst: A substance or agent that initiates a chemical reaction and makes possible for it to proceed.
Cellulose: The basic structural component of plant cell walls, cellulose comprises about 33 percent of all vegetable matter (90 percent of cotton a 50 percent of wool are cellulose) and is the most abundant of all naturally occurring organic compounds. Cellulose is processed to produce papers, fibres and is chemically modified to yield substances used in the manufacture of such items as rayon, plastics, and photographic films. Other cellulose derivatives are used as adhesives, explosives, thickening agents for foods, and in moisture-proof coatings.
Cellulosic Fibres: The chemical processing of the short collton fibres, linters. Or wood pulp produces fibres like rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Other materials modified to produce fibres include protein, glass, metals and rubber.
Chambray: A plain weave fabric, with a single but different warp and weft color in Jeanswear. Fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp color and natural (unbleached) weft.
China: The name came from both the trouser style worn by British Colonial troops in the 1800’s and the fabric used for the fabric. Today a cotton trouser is considered as a chino and the fabric would be considered as a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill.
Ciba-Geigy AG: Swiss multinational holding company created in 1970 in the merger of two concerns headquartered in Basel-Ciba and J.R. Geigy SA. The group consist of affiliates in some 50 countries and is engaged in the manufacture and marketing of dyes and chemicals; pharmaceuticals; plastics and additives; agricultural chemicals and fertilizers; photographic products; and household and garden products.
Combing: An industrial yarn preparation process where fibres are combed to make them parallel in sliver and short fibres are taken out.
Combed Yarn:A yarn whose sliver is combed – uses finer fibre than carded yarns and is more regular and expensive than carded yarn.
Conventional Cotton: Most popular (commercial) systems for growing cotton by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilizers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides (chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants) the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmer’s people who live near farms as well as our environment.
Corduroy: The French originally called this lush velvety baric “Cord Du Roi”, cord of the king. The fabric is ribbed throughout the length and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface appears. Fourteen wale corduroy was one of the most important jeans fabrics in the 1960’s and 1970 are when jeans became universal. The fabric has a rounded plush velvet type cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cutting the pile. The fabric is woven by having one warp and two filling. After weaving the back of the fabric is coated with glue, and the ribs are cut open down the centre. Once the glue is removed from the face the fabric is finished by a series of brushings, waxing and singeings. When the pile is made from extra fillings rather than from extra warp yarn, the fabric is called velveteen.
Core Spun Yarn: A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn.
Cotton: Cotton, genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous bolls that are manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large divided leaves. Length of fibre ranges from 3/3” to 2” (Egyptian, Sea Island). The longer the fibre the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric. Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, The United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt.
Cotton Gin: On March 14, 1794 Eli Whitney patented his invention of a machine that could take seeds out of cotton. Although one of the most important hardware developments if the history of cotton textiles, Whitney’s gin invention was pirated and this put Whitney’s company out of business by 1796.
Cotton Inspection: The grading, and classing of cotton to facilitate interstate and foreign commerce in cotton by providing official quality determinations.
Yarn Count: The size of yarn is defined by its weight and fineness. You may have Tex=No. of grams per kilometer; English Cotton Count=No of 840 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (YSW)=No. of 256 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (Dewsbury) = No. of yard lengths per oz; Worsted Count=No. of 560 yd lengths per lb; Metric Count=No. of kilometers per kilogram; Linen Count(Wet Spun) = No. of 300 yd. length per lb; Jute Count=No. of lb per 14.400 yd; Denier=no. of grams per 9.000 meters; Decitex=No. of grams per 10.000 meters.
Courtaulds: One of the oldest and largest textile groups in the world. Divided today in 2 groups, Courtaulds textiles with fabric production, garment manufacturing and retail, and Courtaulds Plc, a chemical company which produces fibres & has recently developed and marketed Tencel ®.
Crock: A term used to describe how dye rubs off fabric on skin or other fabric.
Defoliation: A chemical dust or spray applied to cotton in order to facilitate harvesting. Defoliants were employed in warfare to eliminate enemy food crops and potential areas of concealments of enemy forces by South Vietnamese and U.S. forces in the Vietnam war; the most controversial substance being the chemical compound known as Agent Orange.
Dips: used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times.
Dobby: A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms.
Double Needle: A seam commonly used in jeanswear garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time.
Drawing/Drafting: The industrial process where slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing.
Drill: Usually a left hand 2×1 weave, twill fabric.
Duck: Once known as a fabric lighter than canvas, today a duck is considered to be a synonym for canvas or plain weave cotton made from medium to course yarns.
Dungaree: Comes from the Hindi word used to describe the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri many years ago.
DuPont: They brought the world Nylon, Teflon, Lycra…
Dyeing: The industrial process to add color to fibre, yarn, fabric, or garments.
Eight O Seven (807): The law that allows fabrics to be cut in the United Sates , garments to be assembled in Mexico, Caribbean, and Central American Countries, returned to the United Sates with tariff assessed only on the added value (sewing)
Enzymes: Are proteins and as such are present in all living cells. Enzymes speed up chemical processes that would run very slowly if at all. They are non-toxic and readily broken down. Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the fishing or fabrics and garments.
Acetate/triacetate: The oldest man-made fibre and the first one made using tree pulp. Fabrics were made from acetate during WW1 and used in airplane wings. Acetate has fair absorbency, high luster, (silk like) poor abrasion resistance, poor fastness to the sun and low strength which reduces 30% when wet.
Acid wash: (also known as Marble wash/Moon was/Snow was) Patented by the Italian Canadian Laundry company in 1986, the finish gave indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The process was achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast.
Acrylic: Synthetic fibre that is made with just the right combination of coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone. The fibre has fair affinity to dye, and pills easily.
Azoic Dyes: Azoic dyes are the insoluble pigments formed within the fibre by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a diazotized base.
Bartak: A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans, usually front flies, pocket openings and crotch joins of inseams. Thankfully there is a bartek machines.
Basket Weave: A fabric weaves where more than one filling threads pass over and under the same number of threads on alternate rows of the warp.
Bedford Cord: A fabric weave with ribs down the length of the fabric. The ribs can be any width. Looks like an uncut unbrushed corduroy without a velvet feeling.
Big E: Jeans made by Levi Strauss before 1971 where the “E” on the LEVI tab was a capital
Bleach: Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade. Liquid bleach us usually an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain chloride of line (calcium hypochlorite). Because chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial hypochlorite bleaches should never be used on these fibres.
Bleaching: An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from yarn or fabric. Also a process for laundries to make denim jeans fade.
Boll Weevil: This beetle is the most serious pest confronting cotton farmers. The boll weevil affects cotton production throughout North America. It is estimated that between 3,000,000 and 5,000,000 bales of cotton are destroyed annually by the pest. Teach spring adult boll weevils deposit between 1—300 eggs in cotton buds. Because it takes only 2-3 weeks for the egg to develop into an adult, it is possible that 2-10 generations of the beetle are created each year. Insecticides cannot stop the boll weevil because the larvae live inside the cotton boll where it destroys both seeds and surrounding fibres. Organic farmers control the beetle by mowing down and ploughing their crops completely at the end of each season taking away the place for the pest to hide.
Broken Twill: A denim fabric weave first used by Wrangler in 1964 in their jeans style 13MWZ.The diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally interrupted to form a random design. Used prominently in the 1980’s by designer jeans brands like Sassoon, Jordache, and Calvin Klein with their dark prewash jeans and of course originally made famous by Wrangler.
Bull Denim:A 3×1 will weave piece dyed fabric, made from course yarns. Weights can vary from 9 ozs/sq yard up to standard 14 ozs/sq yards. It’s basically denim without indigo!
Canvas: The simplest weave in textiles is a plain weave (1×1) where the filling yarn is passed over and under individual war yarns, using thick yarns, makes the fabric into a canvas.
Carding: The industrial yarn preparation process where raw cotton is separated, opened, cleaned, and made into sliver.
Catalyst: A substance or agent that initiates a chemical reaction and makes possible for it to proceed.
Cellulose: The basic structural component of plant cell walls, cellulose comprises about 33 percent of all vegetable matter (90 percent of cotton a 50 percent of wool are cellulose) and is the most abundant of all naturally occurring organic compounds. Cellulose is processed to produce papers, fibres and is chemically modified to yield substances used in the manufacture of such items as rayon, plastics, and photographic films. Other cellulose derivatives are used as adhesives, explosives, thickening agents for foods, and in moisture-proof coatings.
Cellulosic Fibres: The chemical processing of the short collton fibres, linters. Or wood pulp produces fibres like rayon, acetate, and triacetate. Other materials modified to produce fibres include protein, glass, metals and rubber.
Chambray: A plain weave fabric, with a single but different warp and weft color in Jeanswear. Fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp color and natural (unbleached) weft.
China: The name came from both the trouser style worn by British Colonial troops in the 1800’s and the fabric used for the fabric. Today a cotton trouser is considered as a chino and the fabric would be considered as a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill.
Ciba-Geigy AG: Swiss multinational holding company created in 1970 in the merger of two concerns headquartered in Basel-Ciba and J.R. Geigy SA. The group consist of affiliates in some 50 countries and is engaged in the manufacture and marketing of dyes and chemicals; pharmaceuticals; plastics and additives; agricultural chemicals and fertilizers; photographic products; and household and garden products.
Combing: An industrial yarn preparation process where fibres are combed to make them parallel in sliver and short fibres are taken out.
Combed Yarn:A yarn whose sliver is combed – uses finer fibre than carded yarns and is more regular and expensive than carded yarn.
Conventional Cotton: Most popular (commercial) systems for growing cotton by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilizers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides (chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants) the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmer’s people who live near farms as well as our environment.
Corduroy: The French originally called this lush velvety baric “Cord Du Roi”, cord of the king. The fabric is ribbed throughout the length and the ribs are cut and sheared so that a smooth velvety surface appears. Fourteen wale corduroy was one of the most important jeans fabrics in the 1960’s and 1970 are when jeans became universal. The fabric has a rounded plush velvet type cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cutting the pile. The fabric is woven by having one warp and two filling. After weaving the back of the fabric is coated with glue, and the ribs are cut open down the centre. Once the glue is removed from the face the fabric is finished by a series of brushings, waxing and singeings. When the pile is made from extra fillings rather than from extra warp yarn, the fabric is called velveteen.
Core Spun Yarn: A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn.
Cotton: Cotton, genus Gossypium, one of the world’s most important crops, produces white fibrous bolls that are manufactured into a highly versatile textile. The plant has white flowers which turn purple about two days after blooming, and large divided leaves. Length of fibre ranges from 3/3” to 2” (Egyptian, Sea Island). The longer the fibre the higher the price and the more luxurious the fabric. Cotton withstands high temperatures, can be boiled and hot pressed. It is resistant to abrasion has good affinity to dyes, increases in strength 10% when wet. The world’s leading producers of cotton are China, The United States, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt.
Cotton Gin: On March 14, 1794 Eli Whitney patented his invention of a machine that could take seeds out of cotton. Although one of the most important hardware developments if the history of cotton textiles, Whitney’s gin invention was pirated and this put Whitney’s company out of business by 1796.
Cotton Inspection: The grading, and classing of cotton to facilitate interstate and foreign commerce in cotton by providing official quality determinations.
Yarn Count: The size of yarn is defined by its weight and fineness. You may have Tex=No. of grams per kilometer; English Cotton Count=No of 840 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (YSW)=No. of 256 yd lengths per lb; Woollen Count (Dewsbury) = No. of yard lengths per oz; Worsted Count=No. of 560 yd lengths per lb; Metric Count=No. of kilometers per kilogram; Linen Count(Wet Spun) = No. of 300 yd. length per lb; Jute Count=No. of lb per 14.400 yd; Denier=no. of grams per 9.000 meters; Decitex=No. of grams per 10.000 meters.
Courtaulds: One of the oldest and largest textile groups in the world. Divided today in 2 groups, Courtaulds textiles with fabric production, garment manufacturing and retail, and Courtaulds Plc, a chemical company which produces fibres & has recently developed and marketed Tencel ®.
Crock: A term used to describe how dye rubs off fabric on skin or other fabric.
Defoliation: A chemical dust or spray applied to cotton in order to facilitate harvesting. Defoliants were employed in warfare to eliminate enemy food crops and potential areas of concealments of enemy forces by South Vietnamese and U.S. forces in the Vietnam war; the most controversial substance being the chemical compound known as Agent Orange.
Dips: used to describe fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye. Indigo yarns are dipped in an indigo bath usually 6 times but up to 16 times.
Dobby: A fabric with small geometric figures incorporated into the weave, it is made on special looms.
Double Needle: A seam commonly used in jeanswear garments (shirts, jeans, jackets) where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side for strength at one time.
Drawing/Drafting: The industrial process where slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing.
Drill: Usually a left hand 2×1 weave, twill fabric.
Duck: Once known as a fabric lighter than canvas, today a duck is considered to be a synonym for canvas or plain weave cotton made from medium to course yarns.
Dungaree: Comes from the Hindi word used to describe the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri many years ago.
DuPont: They brought the world Nylon, Teflon, Lycra…
Dyeing: The industrial process to add color to fibre, yarn, fabric, or garments.
Eight O Seven (807): The law that allows fabrics to be cut in the United Sates , garments to be assembled in Mexico, Caribbean, and Central American Countries, returned to the United Sates with tariff assessed only on the added value (sewing)
Enzymes: Are proteins and as such are present in all living cells. Enzymes speed up chemical processes that would run very slowly if at all. They are non-toxic and readily broken down. Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the fishing or fabrics and garments.
0 comments:
Post a Comment